I’ve long recognised the issues with our plastic addiction. I have cleaned up enough beaches, recycled enough trash, opted paper over plastic enough times to have it firmly set in my mind that our obsession with plastic must end. We are fixated with it, blind to it, superfluously consuming it in our everyday lives without […]
Harry ‘the Hat’ Holiday is no stranger to Bali and the Deus Temple of Enthusiasm, a regular visiting place for this global gypsy. Harry’s stylised surf art, with its ethereal qualities and surf-saturated influences, is embraced all over the world, wherever his passport takes him, his beaten up travel suitcase unlatches and a rainbow of […]
Life has a habit of going full circle, coming back around to give us what we gave it, echoes of the past rippling ever onwards. Forrest Minchinton was born to a surfer, shaper and traveller father in Huntington Beach, California, a global Mecca for the surfing community, but before he took his first cross-steps on […]
When surfers first came to Bali, the locals thought they were madmen. Not only did they appear to walk on water, dancing across the faces of waves with mystical grace and supernatural abilities, but they were actually foolhardy enough to venture into the spirit realm of the ocean, where demons lurked beneath the surface to […]
When annual Noosa Festival of Surfing is in full swing every March and five feet of near-perfect ground swell grace its numerous breaks, the local points are inundated with a healthy array of the world’s best longboarders. Taylor Jensen, Harley Ingleby, Joel Tudor, Alex Knost, C.J. Nelson – this just the tip of the tantalising […]
The world isn’t perfect. It rains when we camp, we need to work so we can play, groundswells come and go. We can choose to wallow in negativity, pining over how much better things would be if only this or that intangible element were to only play our game. But wasted hours and wasted days […]
Since it first fell into Western hands, surfing has existed in a state of flux. It is in our nature to want newer, better, faster of our frivolous possessions. We upgrade our technology, succumb to the whim of fashion and expand our material wealth as if these are the makings of a better life. We […]
A photo essay collaboration with Romain Juchereau for Slow Drive Magazine.
I, like so many others in this area, even in this country, got bitten by the surfing bug, and that little sucker has left teeth marks that will scar for life. I’ve surfed up and down the Coast, on shortboards and longboards, in winter and summer, on hair-raising swells that towered over my head and […]
If you’re reading this, I can almost guarantee you are at the very pinnacle of living.